Intake/Exhaust Camshaft Actuator Solenoid test (P0010, P0011) – GM 2.4



2012 Buick Verano uh I don't even know how to pronounce this Verano it spelled ve R a n Oh I have never worked on one of these but I am familiar with this Ecotec engine let's go to the scan tool first let's see what kind of folk codes we have the customer complaint is a check engine light so I don't know of any running problems it is a 2012 I do have the option of an automatic ID we'll see if this works for this it may or may not using the new various Ed's here on this courtesy of Rosedale Technical College this is not mine this is the school's so thank you for letting me borrow this Dennis who is my boss cool it did Auto ID it so I'm hitting ok and we're just going to go to the engine management system I'm not doing an all code scan I'm only worried about the check engine light and what we have is a p 0 0 1 0 which is an intake cam position actuator solenoid valve control circuit so that's awesome I know probably what's wrong with this it's common that these solenoids will fail I have a video where I show this it's on a 2008 Saturn I'll put a link in this video for that when you guys can watch the process I'm going to try to do this one a lot faster than I did that one take this cover off the top and our solenoids for this all right here alright so the one up front this should be this should be my intake solenoid right here and then this one should be the exhaust solenoid and what I don't know about these right now is whether or not their power or ground side switched I can't remember from the video that I did but I'm just going to do a couple of voltage measurements and and then see what what I have I'll compare the exhaust to the end we'll just go from there I need to be careful back probing this because what I can actually do is just buy back probing it I may make this all annoyed come back to life just by moving the connector the male pins inside you stress them and then you can make the solenoids make contact again but honestly with these codes on this system you're pretty safe to put these solenoids in and I'm going to tell this garage owner to do both if we find that this intake one is bad so a couple quick voltage measurements I just have the key on just going to my home tab and I'm going to go right to my scope multimeter and the test that I want to do really guys um you can just use a voltmeter for this okay I know I have an expensive scan tool here but just a voltmeter is fine in fact I'll go in the volts DC mode on my digital multimeter just because I want to show that it's really all you need to troubleshoot this circuit so I'll focus you a little closer and we'll go with the exhaust cam first and the reason I want to go with the exhaust one first the exhaust cam actuator solenoid is this is our known good one okay and I have no voltage on that wire and I have no voltage on that wire so my memory is now coming back to me on this and that these are power side switched circuits this is section three material for you guys that are following along in my classroom material and in my book section three power and ground side switching this is a power side switch circuit and then what I can figure out is which one has the constant ground which one is the computer multiple different ways what we can do with this one is we can actually take the scan tool and command it on so I'm going to do that on the exhaust side first I got functional tests go to output controls and then what I want is my I want my actuator solenoid for this air solid cooling fans EC ignition relay are you gonna let me do it fuel pressure trim no I do not see those in here let's go back cam actuator test I missed that actuator I need the solenoids themselves let's do the exhaust one first and we had continue and so what we want to see when we do this is when I turn this on okay I can hear the solenoids clicking that's the exhaust side now let's go ah I remember this now the vise exceeded limit that means it's not going to let me do it for very long this is where having a regular multimeter helps ah shoot how can I show you these both together quickly um okay I need to go to my graph I'm gonna do it a little bit different I'm gonna go to my graphing meter because this will give me a longer time base and we'll set this up to the maximum let's go let's go well I don't have to go back a minute a minute time base I'll leave that live it should still work this way I'm gonna try go to my home tab go back to my scanner do my exhaust one I might it might make me suck with a key before it lets me do it again we'll see yeah I need to turn the key off wait five seconds turn the key back on ridiculous I remember now whining about this last time I did this procedure on that Saturn and how it kept kicking me out of the test so you got a real small window here I'm not sure if I'm on the ground wire or the control wire yet we're about to find out they're just clicked just turn it on and off once go to my scope there we go see the activity there that shows me good control its power side switch looks like it's pulse width modulated too all right so that's the which wire is that that's the one to the right I'm going to guess that that is the one to the right for the intake this is the bad side now guys and I'm reading point zero two on that wire now using a graph so it's a little different point zero two on that one let's go back to the right and let's energize the intake one now ah so stupid I got a cycle the key again key off wait five seconds turn key back on they got to rewrite this program for these seriously give me a little bit longer testing window it's ridiculous okay so do I have my scope running right now I do point zero to take a look at this live number in the middle point zero two and the graph shows me that same value go to Home tab go to the scan tool continue I'm doing the intake side now and I'm going to turn it on I heard it click turn it off and then hit exit so we don't doesn't mess me up with that timer home scope there is my control looks like the highs and lows of that were more if you look at this picture you guys see I can't zoom in like I can with my with my Pico this was my exhaust one over here now that looks good and then my intake one let's zoom back out that's the that's the exhaust side here's the intake side those look good so the just the fact of me back probing this probably brought this back to life is my guess I really wish they'd let me do this for a longer period of time you see the spikes in here to suggest a magnetic field collapse you see the negative spike right there I don't know if that's going to record my mouse doing that I am looking at the downward spike below the zero line at the end of this on/off period that spikes telling me current flow so honestly that's telling me my ground is good too because if I didn't have ground I wouldn't have that spike let's see if we see the same thing on the exhaust one here's the exhaust yeah so how do you make a call on a functional solenoid how do you make a call on a functional circuit I'll tell you what with this design I have no problem with this code putting a solenoid in this it's just simply simply dead if this would allow me to I can't do it if this would allow me to I would exercise this intake cam more and get it to where I'm controlling it and it's not clicking I could do that manually I may do it see if I push on this if I can make it not click yeah that's all giving me okay so we have an intermittent fault oh by the way the clicking tells you your ground as good as well this control circuit code that's here sorry I'm trying to talk about two things at once with a control circuit fall what that's telling you is you have a wiring problem an open circuit or you have an open in the solenoid itself control circuit this is getting a solenoid guys I have no problem doing that given the fact that I've done these before given the fact that they stock these and it's just getting a solenoid we could do resistance measurements compare the the two and maybe that would make some of you feel a little bit better that would be the last thing we do here before we put solenoids in this the only other way to be a hundred percent is I need that solenoid to malfunction again and right now it just simply is not so last check before I tell this garage owner to put this ola noise in is what we'll do a quick resistance measurement for you guys that's just more to keep everybody happy keep everybody from from yelling at me and saying that I should have checked this further but sometimes you can't always create what you want but this is reality that's the way it goes in the field man you have a vehicle with a fault code and and then you can't always duplicate them go to my digital meter will go to ohms will calibrate these we just put the leads together so we get some accurate measurements oops gonna move my leads up top for the ohm meter okay it's gonna be hard to do those pins are really close together this is why resistance measurements suck okay I'm I'm reading 58 mega ohms on this I I know at one point I read 15 ohms I'm gonna go to the exhaust side I'm just kind of stressing these these pins is is revealing rsu's come on man I shouldn't stay on the mega ohms scale this should drop down okay I'm not a huge fan of the ohmmeter here at all so we have about ten and a half ohms on the exhaust side you have 214,000 on the intake side and if I move the pins is that point one seven of them I need to make sure my leads aren't touching each other I think they were this is horrible so what's going on here guys is is as I am putting my meter on this I'm stressing the pins and I'm actually revealing the issue which is the internal parts of that solenoid are bad we are changing both solenoids on this I showed you guys what a known good one looks like on the exhaust side the intake side one is bad and we're changing them both just because this is such a common problem so that's it pretty basic procedures you really don't need the bi-directional test to to check these solenoids you can actually do resistance measurements and you can actually check these with the car being driven or snap throttle test to see check for control there is ways to do that of course having a bi-directional scan tool is key in accuracy but it can be done without it faulty intake cam actuator solenoid

20 thoughts on “Intake/Exhaust Camshaft Actuator Solenoid test (P0010, P0011) – GM 2.4”

  1. Camshaft Actuator Solenoid are good, but I got zero voltage, on either intake/exhaust, what could be the problem?

  2. Looking for recommendations. I have replaced both these parts because of codes and still getting same problems with car. When in reverse car wants to shut off or when in drive car sometimes starts to studder.

  3. Hi Paul I had one come in today with a faulty intake cam actuator solenoid when I did my voltage measurement on the feed to the faulty actuator solenoid key on engine off, I had a low voltage of about 2volts, but no voltage on the feed to exhaust actuator solenoid… I did these checks with them plugged in. Then gently front probe them unplugged key on engine off and measured 2.50 volts on both solenoid feeds. Why the low voltage on the power feed circuit on the intake solenoid and not the exhaust. It was a 2011 Chevy HHR with the 2.2L. The intake solenoid ohmed at 125K. I had both a p0010 and P0011.

  4. Would it be possible to unplug the connector and put a test light between the two pins and toggle on with scan tool to check power and ground? Then use dvom to test the resistance on the solenoid?

  5. I have rough idle and P0016 which says camshaft position correlation bank 1 sensor A on cheap scanner….Do I change the camshaft position sensor and then try actuators if it doesn't fix?

  6. I love this video. You not only get to know whats wrong and how to fix it, but why it's messed up in the first place.

  7. How to you know what the resistance measurement spec is? just curious as I didn't see that mentioned for the person who just uses a multi/ohmmeter?

  8. I have had a few cases where mice chewed the wiring harness for these under the intake but I appreciate the info because I did not have a proper method of testing the solenoid control. Thanks

  9. is there a pid for timing advance where you could watch the advancement and see if it cuts out again, say if you held at a certain rpm or revving .  or maybe an ohms check to see if it goes open while moving it?

  10. is there a difference between the intake solenoid and the exhaust solenoid? will it be bad if I put the intake solenoid into the exhaust port and vice versa? The parts look exactly the same except for the color coded gray and black tabs.

  11. i have chevy malibu 2.4 L 4 cylinder 2013 and 2 months ago there was check engine light and after diagnostics found P0011 code . I just clean the intake cam position actuator solenoid valve and reset the battery , after 6000km ,same check engine light appeared while i was driving at speed of 80km/hr and i accelerated the car . After diagnostics P0011 code was there.
    Engine Oil level is fine and i used to do engine oil replacement on regular basis .

    Is this a solenoid problem because last time i just clean the solenoid and check engine not appeared till 6000 km or there is mechanical problem in engine like carbon .

    Also there is minor oil seepage on below oil pan side. Oil level on engine remains the same.

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